Traveling Companions and Shrine Hunts

It is a long way to Lebanon. I had almost the best luck possible on my flights, however. Just one stop from SF, with a transfer in Paris. No one was in the middle seat on the 10-hour flight to Paris. The only demerit was the young girl behind me, who was a wiggle worm all night – at least she didn’t shriek.

In the Paris airport there were two young Muslim women, wearing the hijab (head scarf), but they were more flashy then I’ve ever seen. In Istanbul it wasn’t unusual to see “covered” young women wearing very fitted, coordinated clothes, with colorful high heels and fancy handbags. Their hijabs were like fashion accessories, capping off their outfits. Photos I’ve seen of covered women in Cairo look to be equally fashion forward. But, these two travelers were orders of magnitude more flamboyant. Tight jeans, hip length spangled tunics, lots of makeup, open sandals and painted toenails, and their hijabs were full-fledged headdresses. With silk flowers and glitter attached. I was standing next to them as we boarded the flight to Beirut and heard them speaking American English. They were from Detroit, American-born, going to visit family in Beirut. The more glitzy and outgoing of the two said that they get a lot of dirty looks. I told her maybe it was because she was pushing the idea of what a hijab could be – she agreed. Her make-up, perfume and polish belied the hair salon she said she works in. They were seated right in front of me on the flight, and a 38 year old Lebanese Canadian sat next to me. He remarked that he was very attracted to their garb – the women stopped talking to us after that. I would’ve thought attracting attention was the point!?

The Detroit girls and my seatmate all had very big blue eyes. I learned it came from the Phoenicians mixing with the Caucasus, particularly Armenia. My seatmate whose name is Charbal, was my first encounter with the Lebanon Diaspora – a circumstance that is inescapable – it heartbreakingly touches the lives of nearly every Lebanese family. He has renewed his Lebanese passport for the last time and was traveling home for a visit and to vote in tomorrow’s election. We talked politics on the plane – Lebanese are passionate about their politics, and as divided as we are in the US. I have a limited awareness of the issues, but enough to remember what he said and who he plans to vote for, so that as I learn about it all in the Beirut Exchange, it will make sense.

Elections interrupt daily life as usual here. Each Lebanese needs to go to their home village (which can include individual sections of the city Beirut) to vote, rather than voting at the location of their residence. Tonight, most of the city is shut down – few restaurants open. There is a massive armed presence everywhere. I have been told by the sponsor of the Beirut Exchange to stay in tonight – so I will. Otherwise, women can walk on the street alone at night with less worry than I would at home. Tomorrow will be a lay-low day too. Outside tonight, cars are driving, flying flags of their candidates and horn honking – as they do for the World Cup. The noise and activity is escalating. Last night there was very little street traffic. Tonight it sounds like a freeway.

I am at a small hotel in the Gemmayze section of Beirut. It is in the Christian part of the city and upscale. Lots of restaurants, boutiques, and as seen from my hotel room, attractive apartments. This small hotel has a wonderful cast of characters as guests. We flow into the lobby/dining room for breakfast and enjoy each other. The proprietress, Tanya, joins us at our table.

There is 78 year old Emil from London-- A charming, erudite man who made a living as a publicist in Hollywood. He looks and acts 65. Ute, mid 30’s and cute, is from Germany (hmm, gotta find out where in Germany tomorrow). Smaranda and Lina, are from Romania and Bulgaria respectively. They are mid 20’s graduate students and attendees of last year’s inaugural Beirut Exchange. I have already begun the recruitment process to turn them into facilitators for Soliya Connect. Talking to them about their enthusiasm for this part of the world taps into my own. Our words were falling over themselves as we shared our stories. They have visited Beirut twice since their Exchange program a year ago. Of course it is a short flight from Europe…but they love it here.

Tanya is my new best friend. When I asked her where I could get some good fresh Lebanese food, she invited me to join her, and she took me to a very fancy mall. They have wonderful restaurants on the roof. Today the weather was gorgeous, in the 80s and breezy. My allergies have disappeared. From her, too, I understood the pain of the Diaspora. The guidebooks call it a brain drain, but it is much more. It tears limbs off the bodies of families. Many of the young men left during the civil war of 1975-90, and their lives are now overseas. Though they long for their home, there is not much for them here, and their lives are too involved with their adopted lands. Tanya was a flight attendant for Mid East Airlines for many years and has traveled widely. Running a hotel is a good job for her, it puts her in contact with foreigners. It is harder, however, than flying, because a nasty customer leaves the plane after 10 hours at the most. Bad guests can stick around for a long time.

Today, I gleefully saw that I can shrine hunt in Beirut. There are street altars all over the Christian section. I have been photographing those wherever I find them all over the Catholic world -- Mexico, Spain, Italy… I test Jim’s patience when I engage in a shrine hunt, because my constant stopping and shooting is like walking with a male dog – who has to pause to lift a leg every few paces. I will photo to my heart’s content tomorrow. I have long loved these shrines because they are such a humble connection between spirit and the street.

Moving forward to Day 2 in Beirut. I’ll post pics tomorrow. Please weigh in with your thoughts!
Love,
Ginney